Available In:

Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania Smartweed) 1 Packet $2.00 Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania Smartweed) 1-9 pounds $30.00 per pound Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania Smartweed) 10-19 pounds $25.00 per pound Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania Smartweed) 20-49 pounds $20.00 per pound Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania Smartweed) 50 pounds or more $15.00 per pound

DEALER PRICING AVAILABLE. Please call TOLL FREE 1 800 826 3655 for quote and shipping costs.

Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania Smartweed)

In its natural state Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania smartweed) tends to grow on freshwater mudflats, and areas that are moderately brackish. If you are considering planting smartweed, or have natural stands of smartweed that attract ducks the following plan will certainly benefit not only yourself, but also the smartweed and the ducks you attract.

Cultivation

Cultivating Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania smartweed) from seed is a straightforward process and unless you have several acres to plant, broadcasting by hand will suffice.

Management

Management of Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania smartweed) can be broken down into four seasonal steps.

Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania smartweed) Winter Management

Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania smartweed) Spring Management

Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania smartweed) Summer Management

Pink Smartweed (Pennsylvania smartweed) Fall Management

For larger quantities please call TOLL FREE 1 800 826 3655 for quote and shipping costs.

Weeping Lovegrass - Eragróstis cúrvula

It’s the truth, that all gardeners have desires, ambitions and objectives for his or her gardening interests. They’ll always find new plants they’d like to grow but usually they come upon a dead end when it comes to getting basic growing recommendations.

Many gardeners would like to grow ornamental grasses like weeping lovegrass but aren’t to sure where to begin or how difficult it may be. Well, you might be amazed at just how effortless it is to grow weeping lovegrass if you stick to these three simple rules.

Firstly you need to make a decision about is which bed in your garden you’re going to grow your weeping lovegrass. Bear in mind, preparing is a critical facet of any gardening task and failure to decide where you’ll grow weeping lovegrass could have unforeseen results. Keep in mind that weeping lovegrass grows in densely tufted clumps approximately 36 inches in circumference and reaches a height between 24 to 36 inches.

The suggested sowing rate for weeping lovegrass is one ounce per 700 sq.ft.

A crucial aspect in the planning process is deciding whether you’re likely to grow weeping lovegrass in a container, as a accent or as a background.. By ignoring your plan, you might end up having weeping lovegrass growing where you do not want it and not growing where you do want it.

Furthermore, it’s critical to look at the plants favored growing conditions. weeping lovegrass generally grows in the southern United States in USDA Zones 7 to 10. It flourishes in full sun and has a preference for soils that are sandy and well drained despite the fact that it will grow in heavy clays.

Once you have decided where you’re going to plant your weeping lovegrass and how you’re going to proceed with it you will need to get ready your seed bed. This is as easy as raking the area to break up the soil. That’s all there is to it.

If you intend to use this ornamental grass as a background we advise that you broadcast it. This is easily achieved with a coffee can or something similar that has holes punched in its bottom. You should also use a carrier. White laundry detergent granules or white sand works well (you can see any places you’ve missed).

If you’re growing weeping lovegrass as an accent between flowers and bushes or in a container you only need to drop in a little (generally what comes in a packet) in each planter box or selected garden bed. Regardless of where you are planting your grass, once sown rake over it very lightly to guarantee the seed is coated by about 1/4 inch of soil.

The ultimate action concerns watering. For about the first four weeks you need to keep the soil moist by lightly watering it every day. As soon as the plant has become established watering once every week will suffice.

As you can see, successfully growing weeping lovegrass is not a intricate or difficult procedure. In fact, it is really a very easy process. Moreover, once your weeping lovegrass has become established it is just a extremely low maintenance plant and extremely effective in the role of an ornamental grass.

Available In:

Weeping Lovegrass Packet $2.00 Weeping Lovegrass 1/4 Pound $150.00 Weeping Lovegrass One Pound $500.00

For quantities over 5 (five) pounds please call for quote and shipping costs.

Many gardeners would really like to grow ornamental grasses like for example, alkali sacaton but aren’t to sure where to begin or how difficult it may be. Well, you could be surprised at just how uncomplicated it is to grow alkali sacaton if you comply with these three straightforward actions.

One thing you need to determine is which section of your garden you’re going to grow your alkali sacaton. Keep in mind, organizing is a crucial factor of any gardening task and failing to plan where you’ll grow alkali sacaton may have unforeseen consequences. Keep in mind that alkali sacaton develops in clumps of green foliage that are around 24 inches wide and attains a height between 36 and 60 inches. The suggested planting rate for alkali sacaton is one ounce for every 700 square feet.

An important part in the planning process is deciding if you’re going to grow alkali sacaton in a container, as a accent or as a background.. By ignoring your plan, you could end up with alkali sacaton developing where you don’t want it and not growing where you do want it.

Furthermore, it’s essential to look at the plants ideal growing environment. alkali sacaton generally grows in the mid west and western United States in Zones 3 to 10. It thrives in full sun and likes soils that are of soil types even though it will tolerate those that are salty..

Once you have made a decision on where you’re going to plant your alkali sacaton and how you’re going to proceed with it y to loosen the soil. That’s it.

If you intend to use this ornamental grass as a background we advise that you broadcast it. This is easily achieved with a coffee can or something similar that has holes punched in its bottom. You should also use a carrier. White laundry detergent granules or white sand works well (you can see any places you’ve missed).

If you’re growing alkali sacaton as an accent between flowers and bushes or in a pot you only need to drop in a touch (generally what comes in a packet) in each container or chosen area. Regardless of where you are planting your seed, once planted rake over it very softly to guarantee the seed is protected by about 1/4 inch of soil.

The ultimate stage concerns watering. During the first year weeks you are required to keep the garden bed moist by lightly watering it on a daily basis. After the plant has become established watering once every as required will suffice.

By now you realize that, planting and growing alkali sacaton is not a complex or involved procedure. In fact, it is actually a very easy process. Moreover, once your alkali sacaton has become established it is a very minimal maintenance plant and extremely successful as an ornamental plant.

The difference between Hydric and Upland Soils

Wetlands comprise a number of specific components.  As such, it’s important to be able to identify each of these components. So let’s have a look at hydric soils.

Hydric soils are formed in areas that are saturated, flooded or have ponding during a growing season causing the soil to become anaerobic, or lacking in air/oxygen.

This short article should help you to identify a vital part of any wetlands system. Thus, keep reading to learn how to identify hydric soils in 3 simple steps.

The first step is identifying where you think areas of hydric soils may be located. You actually need to do this because the successful restoration of any wetland requires the identification of hydric soils. You must avoid areas where water doesn’t pond, areas on steep slopes, hill tops, areas with dry and dusty soil and most importantly areas that have no water source(s).

Complete this step correctly and completely. This is very important. If it’s not done properly, for whatever reason, then you will not only be wasting your time but also a lot of energy for no return.

The second step is going to be looking at the ground surface and surrounding area for signs that may indicate the presence of hydric soils. Things you are looking for here are

1. a buildup of organic material such as decomposing leaves on the ground surface,
2. plants that are mainly grasses and similar non-woody plants,
3. woody plants with roots that are wide spread, that may have knees or knobs,
4. ground that is gently sloping away from a depression,
5. the presence of small perennial or ephemeral streams less than 1 foot deep.

Other indicators are depressions containing pools of water, water marks or drift lines on trees and fence posts, nearby streams that are no more than 4 feet below the ground surface. It’s a good idea to stay away from areas with woody vegetation that generally grows higher than 5 feet, as well as landscaped areas, and areas containing structures that would be inundated if a wetland was re-introduced.

The final step is to dig a hole about 12 inches deep.. This is really very important because it will allow you to confirm the presence or absence of hydric soils. You’re going to be looking for a couple of specific things. First off; things are looking good if the hole fills with water. Second, if the soil is hydric it should be gray/black in color and may have reddish blotches or mottles. Third, it may have decomposed vegetation in the upper parts. Finally, the soil may have a “rotten egg” odor.  If the soil has any or all of these characteristics then the chances are that you’ve located hydric soils.

Remember, just follow the steps as specified above and you should have no difficulties when it comes to identifying hydric soils.

So let’s explore that a bit by examining 3 reasons why you should restore a wetlands area.

First, for the positive side consider that Wetlands are one of the most, if the not the most productive ecosystems in the world after rain-forests. Despite this some 50% of wetlands in the USA have been lost over the last 200 years.

O.K., I hear your objection that wetlands are often nothing more than wasteland; bogs that stop the land from being used for agricultural purposes or residential and industrial construction. It is a valid objection, I agree. However, let me provide for your attention the fact that wetlands are one of the most valuable resources around.

Not only do they provide places for recreational activities such as duck hunting and fishing, they also provide important breeding habitats for these and many more animals, birds, insects and mammals. But there’s so much more so let’s continue.

Second, consider that on an acre to acre comparison a wetlands biomass is around 4 times greater than grasslands and at least three times greater than crop or similar agricultural lands. And, additionally, consider that some 35 percent of the USA’s rare animal species live either in wetlands or are dependent upon them.

Finally, you’ll get reduced erosion and thus more stable soils if you allow wetlands to exist. Wetlands plants help stabilize the soil thus preventing erosion. By capturing and slowing the water that feeds them wetlands act as natural purification systems as they are very effective at removing pollutants and sediments. Furthermore, wetlands help reduce flood damage by storing water.

This in turn implies that wetlands help maintain healthy rivers, streams, estuaries and lakes etc. Likewise, despite acting like giant sponges water does slowly seep back into ground water resources to help maintain their vital reserves. . The bottom line is that as most of the land in the USA is privately owned significant increases in the amount of land returned to wetlands will only result in an increase in wetland quality and a much healthier environment for all of us!

When you glance at the reasons and evaluate them, I expect you will probably have to admit that a compelling case can be made for considering why you should restore a wetland in your area. If you have any questions about wetland restoration or enhancement start off with your local conservation district office, talk to someone from Ducks Unlimited, or the Army Corps of Engineers. So what are you waiting for, start planning your wetlands restoration project today! You’ll be doing yourself, your family and the environment we all share a great big favor

Wetlands Pollution

Our wetlands are disappearing.  In fact, over 50% have been lost in the last 200 years. Moreover, what remains is in many cases badly degraded. As you might imagine such losses cannot be sustained. Remember, wetlands play a pivotal role in the environment and are one the most productive ecosystems in the world next to rain-forests.

This article presents some simple ways you can help to protect wetlands on a daily basis by explaining things you should avoid.

1. If you change the oil in your car, don’t pour the old oil down storm water drains. The same applies to ant-freeze. The reason that you shouldn’t do this is that these products do end up in rivers and streams and both can damage or kill underwater plants and animals.

So rather than disposing of motor oil and anti-freeze down drains why not place the used oil or anti-freeze into durable containers and take them to an approved receiving center or your local service station for safe disposal.

2. Don’t use fertilizers or pesticides incorrectly. Remember, fertilizers are full of nutrients, e.g., nitrogen and phosphorous that can wash into rivers and lakes following rain. The result can be algae blooms that consume the oxygen fish and other organisms need to live.

Likewise, pesticides and herbicides contain toxic materials that kill insects and weeds. These can also flow into streams as runoff that is dangerous to not only us but also fish, waterfowl and wetlands plants.

You should only use fertilizers and pesticides according to the manufacturer’s directions and by using common sense. For example, don’t fertilize if there’s rain in the forecast. You should also get your soil tested so you know the correct amount of fertilizer to use.

Secondly, give organic fertilizers such as manure and compost, and organic pesticides a try. Give natives a try in your garden as they generally require less water and pesticides.

3. Don’t throw away lawn clippings and fallen leaves. All this does is place an additional load on already congested landfills. Simply leave the grass clippings on your lawn as lawn-food when you mow, or compost the clippings and any fallen leaves for later use as a fertilizer..

4. Don’t throw litter into the streets. Clearly street litter, like plastic bags, styrofoam cups, candy wrappers and pop cans, end up in storm water drains and eventually our streams, rivers and oceans. Most street litter comprises plastics and not only do these take hundreds if not thousands of year to decompose, it’s not unusual for marine animals to mistake these objects for food with deadly results.

By recycling as much of your trash as possible and disposing of all non-recyclable trash responsibly you’ll be doing your bit to help our wetlands. Avoid throwing trash into the streets or down drains and if you see any trash lying around, please pick it up and place it in a trash can!

5. Avoid watering the road, the sidewalk and your driveways. It’s sometimes hard to avoid this but try to ensure that you place your sprinklers so that they only water your lawn and garden. The best time to water is during the coolest part of the day – early morning or late evening to ensure that evaporation is reduced and don’t water when it’s windy.

Be sure to steer clear of the 5 errors discussed above and consider the alternative suggestions that were offered; by doing this you will be doing your bit to help preserve our wetlands.

It also provides information to assist you when it comes to the propagation of rushes and the care required in establishing and maintaining your rushes.

You should also keep in mind that rushes make an excellent ornamental plant by adding character to your garden in terms of texture, movement, sound and color. Just remember they like shady locations with moist soils.

Lorenz’s OK Seeds can provide your project with either seed or live plants (rhizomes) for your wetlands project.

And while you watching the slide show remember that Wetlands:

1. Support wide ranging ecological, social and environmental functions.
2. Are the world’s most biologically productive and economically important habitat types.
3. Remove water contaminants, provide a buffer to flooding and erosion.

Remember, our wetlands are disappearing at a greater rate than they are being restored so every little bit helps. For this pattern to be reversed we need carefully planned and implemented wetlands restoration projects.

View Wetlands Slideshow

Simple and Effective Home-Made Cold Frame

Cold frames are really nothing more than a simplified, self-contained smaller version of a green house. Regardless of whether you’re growing flowers or vegetables cold frames are probably the most useful garden structures you can have. A cold frames only heat source is the sun and as such, opening the lid by varying degrees is the only way to control internal temperatures. Some newer designs do include passive, solar-energy storage. Typically, cold frames range in height from 12 to 24 inches and will have either transparent or solid walls. Needless to say the lid is transparent.
A cold frame will allow you to:

As such, cold frames allow you to do a number of things in a relatively easy manner. Let’s face it, hardening off seedlings can be a real chore, but a cold frame makes it much easier. Furthermore, cold frames provide your plants with protection from strong winds; raise daytime and nighttime temperatures around your plants, and shelter frost sensitive vegetables or flowers. During sudden and unforeseen cold snaps cold frames can be covered with heavy cloth or burlap to provide additional protection and warmth.

While it’s possible to purchase cold frames, they can also be made fairly easily. In fact, a really simple cold frame could be made out of a wooden or plastic box with a transparent lid that can be raised. A more traditional method is to use an old glass window, build a timber framework that’s tall enough to clear the tallest plant you grow and then mount the window on top of this frame. You could even use concrete blocks or make a lightweight aluminium framework if you wished.

However, wooden cold frames are generally sturdier and definitely provide better insulation than metal ones. If you decide to make a wooden cold frame make sure you select a weather resistant wood such as western red cedar, cypress or even pressure-treated lumber. Plywood is another option although I wouldn’t recommend it unless you use a marine ply. When building or purchasing a cold frame keep in mind that some are constructed to grow plants in the box, while others are constructed to hold containers. It’s also a good idea to slope the lid of the frame from the back to the front.

Conventional cold frames are usually deigned to set level with, or just below the ground surface to provide protection and use the earth for additional insulation. Newer models tend to be constructed with a very high back and low front to help capture heat from the sun. They are insulated very well. Likewise, present day frames are often built to be completely above ground and covered in a plastic film. Regardless of the type you choose, your cold frames should be located in an area with a southern or south-easterly exposure to maximize solar radiation and with a slight slope to facilitate drainage. They should also be located in an area that is not subject to flooding. If you built or invested in an cold frame with a angled lid make sure that the highest part (back) of the frame faces the north and the lowest (front) part faxes the south.

As you can see cold frames can play a vital part in your gardening endeavors. They are relatively easy to build and if you’re not that handy with a hammer and nails they definitely make a long-term, very worthwhile, time saving investment. In addition to growing vegetables, cold frames are an excellent place to start new seeds in springtime or to care for cuttings in the fall and winter months of your favorite evergreen plants. In fact, the propagation of a wide variety of new plants can occur in a cold frame. If you have a short growing season a cold frame should allow you to plant seeds upwards of 2 months earlier than possible if you simply plant directly into your garden. Little wonder that cold frames are the most useful garden structures you can have.

Planting a Seedling

Have you resolved to make your garden the envy of your neighborhood this year?  Are you determined to have a garden you don’t need to apologize for? If so, now is the time to start. The first step to having a beautiful garden is good planning. If you’ve kept a log or diagrams of your garden beds over the years to help track what was planted where, and notes about what worked and what didn’t now is the time to break it out so that you can start planning. If you haven’t kept a log or journal promise yourself that you will keep one from now on! You’ll be amazed at the wealth of information you build up over time.

Now is the time to select what new plants your going to plant this spring. As you make your selections ensure that your garden has the right environmental conditions for the new plants. It’s no good growing a plant that requires full sunlight in an area that’s always in the shade and vice-versa. If you have any doubts ask your local gardening supplier.

An often-overlooked aspect of Spring garden preparation is your gardening tools. If you didn’t get around to it as winter closed in, now is a good time to prepare them for the oncoming gardening season. If any of them need cleaning, clean them and remove any rust. If you have any tools that require sharpening get them sharpened. There’s nothing more frustrating than using blunt tools and they can be even more dangerous than sharp ones. If you need to replace a tool that’s worn out replace them now, don’t wait until you go to use it.

Remember, a lot of us get really excited as spring gets closer, and the closer it gets the more impatient we become. If we start too early the results can be a disaster. Keep in mind that spring weather can take surprisingly chilly turns so you need to plan your gardening activities accordingly. The most important date when it comes to planning for spring is the average date of the last frost. Once again, if you’ve kept a journal this will certainly help you work this out. If not, you may be able to get the information from other sources such as a [amazon-product text="farmers almanac" tracking_id="spring prep" type="text"]1571984844[/amazon-product]. Once you know the average date of the last frost you can begin to plan your sowing, hardening off dates and transplanting tasks.

A final word on spring garden preparation has nothing to do with plants and everything to do with you. Don’t just jump straight into your garden, medical clinics experience major surges in gardening related injuries as spring begins. The most common are lower back pain and strains to ligaments and joints. What happens is that we tend to forget, that like our plants we need to be coaxed gently back from dormancy. It’s no good getting all gung-ho without preparing your body first by limbering up and preparing it for the gardening ahead.

The bottom line is that if you want to have a great garden you need to plan ahead. Look at what has and hasn’t worked in the past, decide what you want to plant and where. Don’t jump in too early, make sure that the chance for frost are past and finally make sure you’re ready to start in your garden. After all, if you injure yourself, what’s going to happen to the garden?