If you want to attract big bucks and keep them in your area one if the best “tools” you can have is a Food Plot.

As you know, a harsh winter can be hard on your local deer herds and they require additional carbohydrates to store as fat in order to survive.

Lorenz’s OK Seeds Super “L” Fall wildlife mix combines annual grasses, forbes, Brassica and legumes that deer, quail and turkey are attracted to and will help them remain healthy throughout the winter.

Before you plant your plot get a soil test done to check on the pH and if there are any nutrient deficiencies. This will give you the information you’ll need to make sure you spread the proper amount of lime fertilizer. If you’re interested in maximizing the benefits to be gained from your plot you may be interested in Dr. Judy McFarlen’s “Free” Deer Plot Course.

50 pound bag contains enough seed for 2 acres, i.e. 25 pounds per acre

Price $50.00 per bag

The following photo’s were taken by motion activated game cameras set up adjacent to two feed plots planted with Lorenz’s Super “L” Wildlife Mix. They guys that planted the mix on the two plots shown below can’t wait for the season to open.

Sand Sage (Artemisia filifolia)

Sand sage (Artemisia filifolia) is an aromatic, evergreen shrub. It grows to a height between 3 to 4 feet, with a width of around 3 feet. This native perennial can be found throughout the Western Great Plains and Great Basin. In northwest Oklahoma, sand sage is a major species of the Sand Sage Grasslands.

Sand sage thrives in full sun in well-drained, rocky, or sandy soils as well as deep sands and sand dunes and is often found growing in gullies and arroyos. It will also grow in good old garden soil and according to some gardeners, will tolerate clays; however, it will not tolerate heavy soils or shade. Despite a high tolerance to heat, sand sage is not recommended for use in hot desert conditions.

Sand sage is a quick growing plant with low water requirements. It has a moderately fast growth rate and it does not hurt to cut it back periodically, especially if it becomes thin during particularly hard winters. Pruning in this fashion will help keep the plants growth thick.

Sand sage is an excellent plant to use for wind erosion control, in re-vegetation projects and an obvious choice for xeriscaping. Growing in elevations ranging from 1000 to 8000 feet sand sage is cold hardy to around -30-degrees F. This makes it an attractive ornamental plant for high desert gardens. Like any ornamental grass, sand sage will add both movement and softness to a landscape project. You can grow sand sage as either an accent or a background shrub as deer rarely graze it. Sand sage has also been used as an herbal remedy for indigestion and a lotion for the treatment of boils and snakebites.

The silvery blue branches or stems and the plants fine thread-like leaves derive their color from a covering of white hairs. The leaves may fall off during the fall and winter. Unlike the striking leaves and stems, the small, pale yellow flowers of sand sage are almost invisible. Sand sage blooms in the late summer. Crushing the plant releases the heady aroma usually associated with sagebrush.

The seeds are extremely small and like the vast majority of ornamental grasses and wildflowers, should be planted no more than ¼” below the ground surface. Prior to planting, loosen the bed with a rake. Following this broadcast the seed and then lightly rake again to cover the seed.

Sand sage can be germinated in a greenhouse setting from late winter through to early summer just ensure that the soil is well drained and that it does not dry out. The plants will germinate in a couple of weeks and the young plants can then be placed into pots as soon as they are strong enough. They should remain in the greenhouse during their first winter and planted during the late spring or early summer.

Sand sage is a forage plant for a number of wildlife species, and if other forage plants are scarce by livestock. Additionally, it provides shelter and safe nesting areas for a number of upland game birds.

For larger quantities please call TOLL FREE 1 800 826 3655 for quote and shipping costs.

Weeping Lovegrass - Eragróstis cúrvula

It’s the truth, that all gardeners have desires, ambitions and objectives for his or her gardening interests. They’ll always find new plants they’d like to grow but usually they come upon a dead end when it comes to getting basic growing recommendations.

Many gardeners would like to grow ornamental grasses like weeping lovegrass but aren’t to sure where to begin or how difficult it may be. Well, you might be amazed at just how effortless it is to grow weeping lovegrass if you stick to these three simple rules.

Firstly you need to make a decision about is which bed in your garden you’re going to grow your weeping lovegrass. Bear in mind, preparing is a critical facet of any gardening task and failure to decide where you’ll grow weeping lovegrass could have unforeseen results. Keep in mind that weeping lovegrass grows in densely tufted clumps approximately 36 inches in circumference and reaches a height between 24 to 36 inches.

The suggested sowing rate for weeping lovegrass is one ounce per 700 sq.ft.

A crucial aspect in the planning process is deciding whether you’re likely to grow weeping lovegrass in a container, as a accent or as a background.. By ignoring your plan, you might end up having weeping lovegrass growing where you do not want it and not growing where you do want it.

Furthermore, it’s critical to look at the plants favored growing conditions. weeping lovegrass generally grows in the southern United States in USDA Zones 7 to 10. It flourishes in full sun and has a preference for soils that are sandy and well drained despite the fact that it will grow in heavy clays.

Once you have decided where you’re going to plant your weeping lovegrass and how you’re going to proceed with it you will need to get ready your seed bed. This is as easy as raking the area to break up the soil. That’s all there is to it.

If you intend to use this ornamental grass as a background we advise that you broadcast it. This is easily achieved with a coffee can or something similar that has holes punched in its bottom. You should also use a carrier. White laundry detergent granules or white sand works well (you can see any places you’ve missed).

If you’re growing weeping lovegrass as an accent between flowers and bushes or in a container you only need to drop in a little (generally what comes in a packet) in each planter box or selected garden bed. Regardless of where you are planting your grass, once sown rake over it very lightly to guarantee the seed is coated by about 1/4 inch of soil.

The ultimate action concerns watering. For about the first four weeks you need to keep the soil moist by lightly watering it every day. As soon as the plant has become established watering once every week will suffice.

As you can see, successfully growing weeping lovegrass is not a intricate or difficult procedure. In fact, it is really a very easy process. Moreover, once your weeping lovegrass has become established it is just a extremely low maintenance plant and extremely effective in the role of an ornamental grass.

Available In:

Weeping Lovegrass Packet $2.00 Weeping Lovegrass 1/4 Pound $150.00 Weeping Lovegrass One Pound $500.00

For quantities over 5 (five) pounds please call for quote and shipping costs.

Many gardeners would really like to grow ornamental grasses like for example, alkali sacaton but aren’t to sure where to begin or how difficult it may be. Well, you could be surprised at just how uncomplicated it is to grow alkali sacaton if you comply with these three straightforward actions.

One thing you need to determine is which section of your garden you’re going to grow your alkali sacaton. Keep in mind, organizing is a crucial factor of any gardening task and failing to plan where you’ll grow alkali sacaton may have unforeseen consequences. Keep in mind that alkali sacaton develops in clumps of green foliage that are around 24 inches wide and attains a height between 36 and 60 inches. The suggested planting rate for alkali sacaton is one ounce for every 700 square feet.

An important part in the planning process is deciding if you’re going to grow alkali sacaton in a container, as a accent or as a background.. By ignoring your plan, you could end up with alkali sacaton developing where you don’t want it and not growing where you do want it.

Furthermore, it’s essential to look at the plants ideal growing environment. alkali sacaton generally grows in the mid west and western United States in Zones 3 to 10. It thrives in full sun and likes soils that are of soil types even though it will tolerate those that are salty..

Once you have made a decision on where you’re going to plant your alkali sacaton and how you’re going to proceed with it y to loosen the soil. That’s it.

If you intend to use this ornamental grass as a background we advise that you broadcast it. This is easily achieved with a coffee can or something similar that has holes punched in its bottom. You should also use a carrier. White laundry detergent granules or white sand works well (you can see any places you’ve missed).

If you’re growing alkali sacaton as an accent between flowers and bushes or in a pot you only need to drop in a touch (generally what comes in a packet) in each container or chosen area. Regardless of where you are planting your seed, once planted rake over it very softly to guarantee the seed is protected by about 1/4 inch of soil.

The ultimate stage concerns watering. During the first year weeks you are required to keep the garden bed moist by lightly watering it on a daily basis. After the plant has become established watering once every as required will suffice.

By now you realize that, planting and growing alkali sacaton is not a complex or involved procedure. In fact, it is actually a very easy process. Moreover, once your alkali sacaton has become established it is a very minimal maintenance plant and extremely successful as an ornamental plant.

The difference between Hydric and Upland Soils

Wetlands comprise a number of specific components.  As such, it’s important to be able to identify each of these components. So let’s have a look at hydric soils.

Hydric soils are formed in areas that are saturated, flooded or have ponding during a growing season causing the soil to become anaerobic, or lacking in air/oxygen.

This short article should help you to identify a vital part of any wetlands system. Thus, keep reading to learn how to identify hydric soils in 3 simple steps.

The first step is identifying where you think areas of hydric soils may be located. You actually need to do this because the successful restoration of any wetland requires the identification of hydric soils. You must avoid areas where water doesn’t pond, areas on steep slopes, hill tops, areas with dry and dusty soil and most importantly areas that have no water source(s).

Complete this step correctly and completely. This is very important. If it’s not done properly, for whatever reason, then you will not only be wasting your time but also a lot of energy for no return.

The second step is going to be looking at the ground surface and surrounding area for signs that may indicate the presence of hydric soils. Things you are looking for here are

1. a buildup of organic material such as decomposing leaves on the ground surface,
2. plants that are mainly grasses and similar non-woody plants,
3. woody plants with roots that are wide spread, that may have knees or knobs,
4. ground that is gently sloping away from a depression,
5. the presence of small perennial or ephemeral streams less than 1 foot deep.

Other indicators are depressions containing pools of water, water marks or drift lines on trees and fence posts, nearby streams that are no more than 4 feet below the ground surface. It’s a good idea to stay away from areas with woody vegetation that generally grows higher than 5 feet, as well as landscaped areas, and areas containing structures that would be inundated if a wetland was re-introduced.

The final step is to dig a hole about 12 inches deep.. This is really very important because it will allow you to confirm the presence or absence of hydric soils. You’re going to be looking for a couple of specific things. First off; things are looking good if the hole fills with water. Second, if the soil is hydric it should be gray/black in color and may have reddish blotches or mottles. Third, it may have decomposed vegetation in the upper parts. Finally, the soil may have a “rotten egg” odor.  If the soil has any or all of these characteristics then the chances are that you’ve located hydric soils.

Remember, just follow the steps as specified above and you should have no difficulties when it comes to identifying hydric soils.

So let’s explore that a bit by examining 3 reasons why you should restore a wetlands area.

First, for the positive side consider that Wetlands are one of the most, if the not the most productive ecosystems in the world after rain-forests. Despite this some 50% of wetlands in the USA have been lost over the last 200 years.

O.K., I hear your objection that wetlands are often nothing more than wasteland; bogs that stop the land from being used for agricultural purposes or residential and industrial construction. It is a valid objection, I agree. However, let me provide for your attention the fact that wetlands are one of the most valuable resources around.

Not only do they provide places for recreational activities such as duck hunting and fishing, they also provide important breeding habitats for these and many more animals, birds, insects and mammals. But there’s so much more so let’s continue.

Second, consider that on an acre to acre comparison a wetlands biomass is around 4 times greater than grasslands and at least three times greater than crop or similar agricultural lands. And, additionally, consider that some 35 percent of the USA’s rare animal species live either in wetlands or are dependent upon them.

Finally, you’ll get reduced erosion and thus more stable soils if you allow wetlands to exist. Wetlands plants help stabilize the soil thus preventing erosion. By capturing and slowing the water that feeds them wetlands act as natural purification systems as they are very effective at removing pollutants and sediments. Furthermore, wetlands help reduce flood damage by storing water.

This in turn implies that wetlands help maintain healthy rivers, streams, estuaries and lakes etc. Likewise, despite acting like giant sponges water does slowly seep back into ground water resources to help maintain their vital reserves. . The bottom line is that as most of the land in the USA is privately owned significant increases in the amount of land returned to wetlands will only result in an increase in wetland quality and a much healthier environment for all of us!

When you glance at the reasons and evaluate them, I expect you will probably have to admit that a compelling case can be made for considering why you should restore a wetland in your area. If you have any questions about wetland restoration or enhancement start off with your local conservation district office, talk to someone from Ducks Unlimited, or the Army Corps of Engineers. So what are you waiting for, start planning your wetlands restoration project today! You’ll be doing yourself, your family and the environment we all share a great big favor

Wetlands Pollution

Our wetlands are disappearing.  In fact, over 50% have been lost in the last 200 years. Moreover, what remains is in many cases badly degraded. As you might imagine such losses cannot be sustained. Remember, wetlands play a pivotal role in the environment and are one the most productive ecosystems in the world next to rain-forests.

This article presents some simple ways you can help to protect wetlands on a daily basis by explaining things you should avoid.

1. If you change the oil in your car, don’t pour the old oil down storm water drains. The same applies to ant-freeze. The reason that you shouldn’t do this is that these products do end up in rivers and streams and both can damage or kill underwater plants and animals.

So rather than disposing of motor oil and anti-freeze down drains why not place the used oil or anti-freeze into durable containers and take them to an approved receiving center or your local service station for safe disposal.

2. Don’t use fertilizers or pesticides incorrectly. Remember, fertilizers are full of nutrients, e.g., nitrogen and phosphorous that can wash into rivers and lakes following rain. The result can be algae blooms that consume the oxygen fish and other organisms need to live.

Likewise, pesticides and herbicides contain toxic materials that kill insects and weeds. These can also flow into streams as runoff that is dangerous to not only us but also fish, waterfowl and wetlands plants.

You should only use fertilizers and pesticides according to the manufacturer’s directions and by using common sense. For example, don’t fertilize if there’s rain in the forecast. You should also get your soil tested so you know the correct amount of fertilizer to use.

Secondly, give organic fertilizers such as manure and compost, and organic pesticides a try. Give natives a try in your garden as they generally require less water and pesticides.

3. Don’t throw away lawn clippings and fallen leaves. All this does is place an additional load on already congested landfills. Simply leave the grass clippings on your lawn as lawn-food when you mow, or compost the clippings and any fallen leaves for later use as a fertilizer..

4. Don’t throw litter into the streets. Clearly street litter, like plastic bags, styrofoam cups, candy wrappers and pop cans, end up in storm water drains and eventually our streams, rivers and oceans. Most street litter comprises plastics and not only do these take hundreds if not thousands of year to decompose, it’s not unusual for marine animals to mistake these objects for food with deadly results.

By recycling as much of your trash as possible and disposing of all non-recyclable trash responsibly you’ll be doing your bit to help our wetlands. Avoid throwing trash into the streets or down drains and if you see any trash lying around, please pick it up and place it in a trash can!

5. Avoid watering the road, the sidewalk and your driveways. It’s sometimes hard to avoid this but try to ensure that you place your sprinklers so that they only water your lawn and garden. The best time to water is during the coolest part of the day – early morning or late evening to ensure that evaporation is reduced and don’t water when it’s windy.

Be sure to steer clear of the 5 errors discussed above and consider the alternative suggestions that were offered; by doing this you will be doing your bit to help preserve our wetlands.

Native American Flute Music By kerri (http://www.freesound.org/usersViewSingle.php?id=50371)
catalpa_sample_canyon.mp3 (http://www.freesound.org/samplesViewSingle.php?id=42932)

Indian Paintbrush is Available in:

Packet $3.00 1 Ounce $250.00

 

We apologize that larger quantities are not currently available.

Bulk Orders and Shipping Rates

For larger quantities call Freddie Toll Free 1 800 826 3655 for a quote.
Shipping and Sales Tax (Oklahoma only) added in cart. For orders over 5 pounds please call for a bulk shipping rate. Quantities required can be changed within your shopping cart.

Indian Paintbrush Hardiness Zones

Hardiness Zones Map
Hardiness Zone 4-8. Click map for larger view.

It also provides information to assist you when it comes to the propagation of rushes and the care required in establishing and maintaining your rushes.

You should also keep in mind that rushes make an excellent ornamental plant by adding character to your garden in terms of texture, movement, sound and color. Just remember they like shady locations with moist soils.

Lorenz’s OK Seeds can provide your project with either seed or live plants (rhizomes) for your wetlands project.

And while you watching the slide show remember that Wetlands:

1. Support wide ranging ecological, social and environmental functions.
2. Are the world’s most biologically productive and economically important habitat types.
3. Remove water contaminants, provide a buffer to flooding and erosion.

Remember, our wetlands are disappearing at a greater rate than they are being restored so every little bit helps. For this pattern to be reversed we need carefully planned and implemented wetlands restoration projects.

View Wetlands Slideshow